Cars get an MOT once a year. Your packraft deserves one too. It takes about an hour plus an overnight wait, costs nothing, and means your first float of the year starts on the water, not on the bank with a roll of duct tape.
Put the kettle on, clear some floor space and play examiner. For each check, give your raft a Pass, an Advisory (keep an eye on it) or a Fail (fix it before you paddle).
What you'll need
- Your inflation bag
- A spray bottle of soapy water (a squirt of washing-up liquid is plenty)
- Mild soap, a soft cloth and an old toothbrush
- Zip lubricant, if your raft has a TIZIP
- A marker pen or some masking tape
- Your repair supplies, so you can check what's in there
Check 1: The walk-round
Unroll the raft somewhere clean and dry and have a proper look, top and bottom. The floor and the stern take the most scraping on rocky put-ins, so start there. Look for scuffs, pinholes, lifting seams and any old patches that are starting to peel. Run a hand along the seams too. You'll often feel a problem before you see it.
Pass: scuffs and character marks. Fail: holes, cuts through the fabric, or a seam you can lift with a fingernail.
Check 2: The overnight inflation test
Fill the raft with your inflation bag and top it up until the tubes are firm, the way you would on the water. Close the valves and leave it indoors overnight. In the morning, give the tubes a squeeze.
A little softening is normal. Air shrinks as it cools, so a raft inflated in a warm room will feel softer once the heating goes off. Keep the room at a steady temperature, or top it up and check again. If it's properly soft or flat, you've got a leak to find.
Pass: still firm. Fail: noticeably soft at the same temperature.
Check 3: The bubble hunt
This is the fun one. With the raft inflated, spray soapy water over it a section at a time and watch for bubbles. Start with the usual suspects:
- The valves. The most common cause of a slow leak.
- The seams. Work slowly along each one.
- The TIZIP, if you have one, especially at the ends.
- Old patches. Check around the edges.
Mark anything that bubbles with your pen or a bit of tape, then rinse the soap off.
Pass: no bubbles. Fail: bubbles. Don't panic: most leaks are an easy fix at home, and our step-by-step patching guide lands on the blog on 4 February.
Check 4: Valves and zip
Make sure the valves seat properly and the caps close snugly. Clear out any sand or grit around them. A single grain is enough to stop a valve sealing.
If your raft has a TIZIP, clean the teeth with an old toothbrush and warm soapy water. Let it dry, then add a thin coat of zip lubricant and wipe off the excess, because extra lube attracts sand. Run the zip open and closed a few times. Never force a zip that sticks: find what's blocking it first.
Pass: valves seal and the zip runs smoothly. Advisory: zip stiff or gritty. Clean it, lube it and try again.
Check 5: Seat, straps and fittings
If your seat or backrest is inflatable, blow it up and check it holds air too. Then go over the grab lines, thigh straps, D-rings and any other attachment points and give each one a firm tug. Look for fraying webbing, worn buckles and glued-on fittings that are lifting at the edges.
Pass: everything solid. Advisory: fraying webbing or a lifting edge. Sort it now, not halfway down a river.
Check 6: The gear check
A proper MOT covers what you carry, too. Lay it all out:
- Buoyancy aid: buckles and zips work, no rips, and the foam isn't squashed flat.
- Paddle: the sections click together firmly and the blades aren't cracked.
- Inflation bag: no holes or tears, and the nozzle is clean and fits your valve snugly.
- Repair supplies: patches, adhesive and alcohol wipes all there, and the adhesive hasn't gone hard in the tube.
The finish line: clean, dry, store
Once your raft has passed, wash it with mild soap and fresh water. Skip scourers and harsh detergents. Let it dry completely in the shade, turning it as it dries. Never store it damp, as it can go mouldy and damage the zip. Keep it loosely rolled or folded somewhere cool and dry, out of direct sunlight, until your first trip.
One thing to skip: shiny protectant sprays. They can leave a coating that stops repair adhesive sticking just when you need it.
Your MOT certificate
All passes? Your raft is ready for spring. An advisory or two? Sort them this month while the evenings are still dark. Any fails? Fix them before your first float. Future you, sitting on a quiet loch in April, will be grateful.
Done your MOT? Show us your raft on Instagram and tag @ironraftuk.
